Our Australian portfolio is small, and might never have existed but for a serendipitous meeting with Mac Forbes on his way back to his native Yarra Valley after some consultancy work in Austria. We have an unashamed Europhile palate here at Clark Foyster Wines, and have no intentions of covering mainstream Australia. But these wines – and any others we may add – have to fit our buying brief: cool, elegant, restrained, and refreshing. What is more, they show at a single stroke, how poor is our understanding of Australian wine as a monolithic structure dominated by 10 producers. The reputation and the future of Australian wine are in the hands of producers like Mac.