All three wines are made in the same way, receiving the traditional Beaujolais treatment of semi-carbonic maceration using natural yeasts. Gravity is used to transfer the carefully selected whole bunches into open concrete vats. Temperatures are kept low during alcoholic fermentation, and there is a controlled and carefully considered use of pigeage and remontage.
All wines undergo ten-months maturation and are bottled in May. Stainless steel is used for Chiroubles Tradition, while Chiroubles Amphoras goes into 600L sandstone amphorae. Xavier prefers sandstone, over clay or ceramic models, due to the high temperature at which it is baked during production (1,350+°C), resulting in less oxygen transfer during maturation, a feature he believes to suit Gamay especially well. A combination of concrete and fiberglass is used for Morgon Le Charmeur.
The result is three excellent wines: serious, expressive, and true to terroir, but nevertheless non-mistakenly Beaujolais in style. There is great regional typicity – vibrant, crunchy red fruit layered upon a cool stream of volcanic acidity. And plenty of that forward charm and drinkability for which the appellation is known.
But there is an added dimension to be found here too: finesse, elegance, and purity; and great energy.