Claudine (née Gindre) and François run this excellent Vosne-based domaine. They were joined by their son Edouard in 2014, and their reputation is growing impressively. For a long time they flew under the radar, at least as far as international reputations were concerned. When we first met in 2010, they exported very little and the majority was sold to private customers in France. But all this is changing. They own 11 hectares, which give them good quantities of Bourgogne Rouge and village Vosne and Nuits, though their holdings of the top wines are minuscule
But here are exciting developments here. The vineyard ownership controlled by different members of the family seem to be resolving to give Edouard access to some of his grandfather’s vineyards in the next few years: most notably some Vosne Suchots from 2019 and some Clos de Vougeot to follow. There is also an additional quantity of Gevrey Chambertin this year. A new cellar is at the planning stage and should be under way in time for the 2020 harvest.
Edouard arrived at the estate in 2014 and the family seems to be managing the generation transition with a pragmatic collaboration. Edouard will have his own label for some of the wines in future, while others will remain under the family domaine. There is another new single vineyard Vosne this year (La Colombière) to follow the arrival last year of Les Hautes-Maizières. On these two cuvées which come under Edouard’s control, he uses a higher proportion of whole bunch fermentation than his father is comfortable with – up to 40% – where his father prefers not to exceed 25% for the other wines. There are some lovely ripe flavours here. In fact the wines have become much more approachable, forward and charming in the last 4-5 vintages, though the wonderful terroirs bring a steely mineral character too. This is particularly noticeable with the three Vosne Village wines, which preserve a brilliant sinewy tautness behind the opulent fruit.
By the standards of this overheated village, these wines are still very competitively priced.