Domaine Paterianakis, Crete

Founded in 1988 by Giorgos Paterianakis, Domaine Paterianakis represents a modern approach to the island’s winemaking and its shift away from high-yield production to organic farming, low-intervention techniques, and the revival of its native grape varieties. Today, the third generation, Emmanouela and her sister, Niki, combine family tradition with modern techniques to produce wines that really do capture the island’s unique Mediterranean identity.

Crete lies between two oceanic influences, with warm winds from Africa to the south and cooler sea breezes from the Aegean to the north. Central Crete, where Domaine Paterianakis is based, in Melesses, is defined by a series of mountain ranges – the Dikti Mountains to the east and the Psiloritis (Mount Ida) Range to the west. The Domaine’s vineyards sit, in fact, on a semi-mountainous plateau at 500-600 meters above sea level. The northern mountain slopes and elevation trap the Meltemi, a cool northerly wind that blows from the Aegean. This, and the north-easterly orientation of the vineyards, helps moderate summer temperatures. Cool nights lengthen the growing season, which helps soften tough-skinned red varieties, like Mandilari, and preserve fresh acidity with moderate alcohol levels.

Soils here are stony, with limestone, clay and good drainage. Roots are forced to dig deep in search of nutrients. This, with vines up to 60 years-old, contributes to a distinctive flinty character and moreish salinity to the wines, particularly the Vidiano. The vineyards are all farmed organically.

The winery is really where modern influences take hold. It was constructed by Giorgos, a civil engineer by profession, over six levels – making logical use of gravity at all different stages of winemaking. Production takes place across the different levels, ensuring minimal disruption to the process whilst keeping temperatures naturally cool. All wines are organically certified, made with native yeasts and minimal sulphites.